Hiking the mighty green route at 26° South / Cradle Moon
To hike or not to hike. That is the question Mr Shakespeare!! Whether ‘tis nobler for the earth, to suffer the slings and arrows of an outrageous beautiful landscape, or to take hands with a sea of worthy admirers and by welcoming them, show them the path to hiking bliss. I think both can be accommodated with significant ease.
To understand the true meaning of this, you must take a walk on the green route. We started at 26° SOUTH BOHO HOTEL where we stayed over for the night. Breakfast was included and there were too much to eat everything that was offered. We settled for yoghurt and fruit, croissants, scrambled eggs, baked potato, and bacon strips. We did not even touch the sausages, salami, ham, and toast. We could not say no to an awesome smelling cup of filter coffee.
The conservation fee is R50 and provides access to the beautiful and well-maintained hiking routes. As we stayed over, the fee was already covered.
The route meandered on the western side of the Highveld Crocodile River. The cool balmy air of Cradle moon lake on your starboard side, caressed our slightly moist brows. I could see that fall was slowly creeping in on us and subtly reminding us of the constant circle of seasons in nature. The leaves of the White Stinkwood Trees (Celtis Africana) are the surest evidence that the season is changing. It is only 10 days past the March equinox and the days will be getting shorter, and the nights will be getting longer and colder.
The path was very easy to easy. I think that if you take your time, anybody of any age can accomplish the first 4.5 Km to the dam wall and the fine restaurant on the North-Eastern shore of the lake. If you race this part, you will surely miss a few gems on the way. The blooming wild Zinnias are saluting us all the way. Wilde Jakob Regop. Such a describing name. Loosely translated as “Wild Jacob Straight up”.
All the puddles of shade and blots of sunshine filtering through the green canopy conjures mostly forgotten poetry lessons in college. The whole route resembles the sprung rhyme and conjunctions of words to fit into a compressed day. Specifically the following by Gerard Manly Hopkins
Pied Beauty
Glory be to God for dappled things –
For skies of couple-colour as a brinded cow;
For rose-moles all in stipple upon trout that swim;
Fresh-firecoal chestnut-falls; finches’ wings;
Landscape plotted and pieced – fold, fallow, and plough;
And áll trádes, their gear and tackle and trim.
All things counter, original, spare, strange;
Whatever is fickle, freckled (who knows how?)
With swift, slow; sweet, sour; adazzle, dim;
He fathers-forth whose beauty is past change:
Praise him.
The rocks are also participating in this mid-morning concerto of colours as the Lichens of different hues occupy their own symbiotic comfort spot on the rocks. The whitish fungus underneath providing the suitable foothold beneath and the carbon-providing photosynthesis-partner on top. Harmony through the ages. Tried and tested through aeons of trials and errors and still going strong.
Every now and then we came up to well placed resting benches. This one underneath the Huilboom or weeping wattle (Peltiphorum Africanum) was just after a short uphill and had a wonderful vista of the lake. A strategically placed rubbish bin anticipated that hikers would take a rest here and would most certainly need a place to discard an empty energy bar wrapper or any unneeded plastics.
We crossed several outcrops of quartzite that pointed out that this was an outpost of the Witwatersrand ridge to the south of this location.
As children we used to rub these white rocks together in the dark to produce a flurry of sparks. The downside was that it produced a smoky stench that, without exception, brought us within striking distance of a hiding. Below the dam wall I even noticed a dolerite intrusion in the sandstone that indicated a violent geological past.
The majestic blue gums (Eucalyptus) towered over us in small clumps. Their crushed leaves will naturally open any SSS (stubborn suburban sinus) without the financial damage of a visit to a physician or a pharmacist.
The path is clearly marked, and the pioneers and maintenance teams of the route go to great lengths to minimise any unnecessary discomfort by providing small bridges and hacked-open corridors of green.
This makes it a pleasure to stroll and digest all that the route can offer. A solitary red chested cuckoo bellowed out his staccato: “piet-my-vrou” Sometimes the Afrikaans names of birds are so descriptive of a unique feature of sound or looks that even visitors to our country remember the name because of its onomatopoeic characteristics. (Cuculus Solitarius) describes the bird well as a lonely cuckoo, but doesn’t come close to “Piet-my-vrou”
The waterfall was such a wonderful surprise and literally took my breath away. The cool mist of the spray felt like standing in soft drizzle with the benefit of the sun resting on your face. It reminded me of my triathlon days when we ran the gauntlet of water sprays between the transitions. I suspect that they also use this venue for adventure sports of sorts in limited amounts. A sun-basking agama was unperturbed by all the Homo Sapiens clicking away with their cell phones and cameras.
We made our halfway house stop at the restaurant at the dam wall. I had a refreshingly tasty steelworks with real ginger ale, and my wife sipped on a Hunters Gold.
The setting was utterly peaceful. I was in awe of the hyper modern structure that accentuated the notion that this was not just a mediocre outing. From the western shore, the restaurant looked like a huge wing, crouching, and waiting for a breeze to lift it up. When we come back, we will certainly try out one of their appetizing dishes.
After a short break, we wandered up to the shop that have most necessities. We stocked up on water and snacks.
Outside the shop I was distracted by a herd of Impala and a wonderful specimen of Wild Pear. The Afrikaans name (drolpeer) again only hints that it resembles a pear tree. The leaves clear up the meaning of its scientific name. DOMBEYA ROTUNDIFOLIA. “Round-leaved Dombeya”.
The wild olive in front of the steel beast was bearing its fruit and inviting the glossy starlings and Indian mynahs to participate in the spreading of its seeds.
The missus posed with a rhinoceros albeit an artificial rusted metal animal. This art piece adds up to the grandeur of all the other pieces we saw at 26°SOUTH. We saw a real one with a calf, the previous day, when we partook in the quadbike safari.
The stack of granite rocks was impressive, and the singular quartzite lump brought back memories of the ending in SHAWSHANK REDEMPTION. Maybe someday I will also hide some sort of treasure behind the translucent white rock. On second thoughts: this is the treasure!!!!!!!
We headed back on the eastern shore in a southerly direction. The splitting of the path in several places wanted me to recite Robert Frost but my wife would have none of that. She would rather play hide-‘n-seek in the poplar forest.
The poplar trees in my hometown always look like a brook rippling through a creek. Here we were strolling between the speckled bark beings. Climbing through some ruins, convinced me that somebody once enjoyed these calm and serene surroundings. The Oregon Pine window and door frames indicate that it was someone with taste. Maybe this will be resurrected once again as a logical halfway house when starting from Cradle Moon lodge.
Our day of bliss was finally concluded with a much-needed swim at the hotel. We will revisit without a doubt. I will definitely have to write about us sneaking “into” their chapel. As students we perfected the art of sneaking “out” of church. This is a story for another day.
Our reunion with this garden of Eden will most likely be sooner than later. I am looking forward to that excursion.